When in Greece, do as the Grecians do: Go to the Peloponnese. Connected by a narrow isthmus (it's less than four miles across at its narrowest) off the southern end of central Greece, the Peloponnese is a large peninsula with many things going for it. Not only are there fewer crowds than on the Aegean islands, it has just as many-if not more-ancient sites, including the temples at Nemea and Olympia. On the sunny east coast of the Peloponnese, tucked away in a deep bay, is the city of Navplion. As Greece's first capital after the Greek War of Independence in the 1820s, Návplion has its share of history, including two Venetian fortresses and many neoclassical buildings. But in fact, Navplion is the more modern side of Greece — a relaxed and appealing place with leafy parks, small museums, picturesque streets and lively outdoor cafes.